New Computer / Computer Upgrade Buying Guide!

New Computer / Computer Upgrade Buying Guide!

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Caydr
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New Computer / Computer Upgrade Buying Guide!

Post by Caydr »

Several people have asked me to give some guidelines on building a new computer... so here I am with a book.

First of all, I want to make it clear that this is written from a Canadian standpoint, and I'll be using Canadian dollars. Not like it's much different anymore! :wink:

I'll also be referencing Canadian shops and Canadian availability. Your kilometre...age.... something... may vary. For buyers in USA, I'd recommand Tigerdirect.com (fast processing and shipping) or or of course, NewEgg (I've never dealt with them since they're fascists who won't share their stuff, but they have the best prices usually).

My favourite stores are TigerDirect.ca and NCIX.com. I'll be referencing them a lot. By the way, this guide is written with budget in mind - if you want to just throw dollars at a problem like computer performance, buy something from Alienware and be done with it.

This guide also assumes you have some degree of technical knowledge. Do not attempt to assemble a computer on your own, not the first time anyway. And if you're going to, don't do it on a carpeted floor. While the computer is plugged in, touch the case to ground yourself and eliminate any static electricity before proceeding. An anti-static wristband might be a good idea.

First, a motherboard.

---

The big name in motherboards right now is Asus. There are others, such as MSI, Gigabyte, and so on, but let me put it this way: I've owned 9 Asus motherboards, every single one was perfect. In the last year, I've bought 5 motherboards from other brands - two had to be returned, and a third was "strongly mediocre", but not return-worthy.

For this reason, I will recommend Asus motherboards over others, but I'm probably just unlucky and other brands are often significantly cheaper. Do you really want to risk the most important component being imperfect though?

To decide on a motherboard, the first thing you need to know is what chipset you want. Nvidia chipsets sometimes have better performance and features, but frankly Nvidia isn't a chipset manufacturer first and foremost - Intel is. People who have "NForce" motherboards (nvidia's brand name), generally got suckered into it by a salesman who says "well it's designed by nvidia, your computer will be faster."

Let's dispose of that myth - chipset makes almost no difference compared with other, more important, factors. Factors, such as CPU, RAM, GPU, and even hard drive.

What chipsets are for is ONE thing - features. If someone even says something about "better performance" from a chipset, they're newbies without a clue - the same people who buy "gaming" or "sli-certified" RAM and "Vista" CPUs... The difference between all current midrange motherboard, performance wise, is unnoticable without complex testing.

Basically, if you get an NForce motherboard, you'll almost certainly get SLi capability - which means, if you want to spend $1500 on two GPUs, you'll get a 50% performance increase under the best circumstances. 2x cost for 50% performance increase isn't worth it to me. Besides which, NForce always seems to have been plagued with one problem or another... it's not a mature product, despite having been around for years, and that should tell you something about what Nvidia's real priorities are.

The current "major" chipsets are:

Intel P965 - Good chipset, its only lacking is the PATA controller. This means that you'll need SATA hard drives and CD ROMs, and no floppy drive. But you always want a floppy drive for troubleshooting purposes... So the solution to this is to find a motherboard that has a secondary chipset which features PATA connectors. This is not to be confused with the G965 chipset... it has onboard graphics, which you *don't* want.

NForce 650i
- OK chipset, OK price

NForce 680i
- OK chipset with too many unnecessary features, bad price

PATA is the old standard for data connections on hard drives, optical drives, floppy drives, etc. You'd recognize it by the wide ribbon-like cable. SATA is a new standard which offers... well they say it offers better speed but I have yet to see real proof that this improves your computer's performance under normal circumstances. The connectors are better though, so it's not a total loss. The main advantage to SATA is that it allows you to configure multiple hard drives into what's called a "RAID" array. RAID arrays are multiple hard drives configured to act as a single one - this means that you can have 4 250 gb hard drives linked together to get a 1 tb hard drive. Another RAID configuration allows you to mirror drives, so that if one of your hard drives fails, you can replace it without any problems. That's the big benefit in my opinion.

RAID jargon (skip this paragraph if you don't plan to use RAID): RAID 0 means the aforementioned multiple-disks-combined-to-one-huge-one configuration. This gives you lots more room for legal music, legal movies, and lots of other legal stuff. But as an added benefit, all the data is split up across all the drives in the array (when possible), which means that under ideal circumstances, having 4 drives means four times the performance. Unfortunately if any one of those drives fails... the whole array is shot. You'll need to start from scratch. That's where RAID 1 comes in. Under this configuration your data is split up, but into identical mirrored copies on multiple disks. 4 disks gives you the same writing speed, but four times the reading speed. As long as one of the mirrors survives, no data will ever be lost. RAID 5 is entirely more complicated. Ehh... it's not for general consumers... the performance decrease is too much, and the benefits are too few. Basically it's a combination of RAID 0 and 1... but... complicated... and messy... good for servers and stuff, I understand, but not regular people. RAID 01 (alternately known as RAID 10) means a combination of RAID 0 and 1. You need at least 4 disks for this configuration, and it's a good compromise of price, performance, and reliability. Basically you split all your data across two drives, then mirror those two drives. As long as you don't lose both drives from one of these "sets", you're fine. 4 disks gives you 2x the write speed and roughly 4x the read speed under ideal circumstances. The downside is that you need more disks.

I use a 4-disk RAID 01 array comprised of 250gb drives, and a fifth standalone 500 gb drive for backup. This gives me 1 terabyte of storage, with lots of performance on my RAID array and somewhere to store all the stuff I'm not currently using on my standalone drive.

You need a RAID controller in order to use a RAID array though. Usually you can get a RAID controller built onto your motherboard.

Besides chipset, the last consideration is CPU socket type... fortunately right now it's a no-brainer. There's colossal number of CPUs available for socket 775 (aka "LGA775"), with a full range of price and performance options.

---

Moving right along... You have two choices: buy a motherboard/CPU bundle, or buy them seperate. Depending on circumstances and the deal you get, either way might be a good option. Just BEWARE of limited return allowances. You might get a motherboard/cpu combo that must be returned together - then what happens if the mobo's fine but the CPU's no good? Always check return availability and factor it into your decision.

So what you're looking for is:

An Asus motherboard with an Intel P965 chipset with a secondary chipset which features at least one PATA and floppy controller, and accepts socket 775 CPUs, preferably with an onboard RAID controller. That's narrowed it down!

In fact, at TigerDirect, you're down to 5 choices as of the time of my writing this:

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... =3&Recs=10

Alternatively, if shopping for a CPU+Mobo combo, you have 7 choices:

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... =3&Recs=10

Reasonably-priced options include:

Asus P5B motherboard: (A good base-model board, doesn't have really good RAID support, but otherwise good)
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... CatId=2432

Asus P5N mobo with E6400 Core 2 Duo CPU: (Includes SLI... unfortunately its crappy Nvidia chipset doesn't let you use fast RAM...)
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... CatId=2406

EDIT: A better price on the P5B:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813131030

EDIT: P5B-E:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813131070

Yessir, you have TWO choices at this moment... At TigerDirect anyway. If you want to look for another deal someplace else, here's your list of must-have features besides those already mentioned:

-Accepts Core 2 CPUs
-Accepts 1066 mhz FSB (front-side bus)
-Accepts PC2-6400 RAM (that's 800mhz), or PC2-4200 (that's 533 mhz) as a bare minimum

A good example is the P5B-E, which I have. It's basically the same as the basic P5B, just a better chipset, meaning better RAID. Early P5B-E motherboards, however, do not allow RAM voltage over 2.1 volts, which can be limiting in some cases... I don't know for sure if that applies to the basic P5B. I have a feeling it doesn't.

In order for P5B motherboards to fully recognize Core 2 Duo CPUs, you'll need to flash their bios. This is a very simple process thanks to Asus.

So that's motherboard out of the way. If you find a deal, post it for others and I'll also give you my best guess about whether it's good or not. Frankly, $175 for that P5B is nothing to write home about... I'd look for a better price elsewhere. $175 including tax would be more reasonable.

So that's motherboards out of the way!

Next comes CPU. This is fairly easy... You want an E4400 if you're going budget, or an E6600 if you want better performance. The cost difference s fairly significant, but so is the performance difference.

Ehh.. for a long time, I've been saying, "wait for July 22 before buying a CPU" because a price drop was scheduled for that day. Well.. it would appear the price drop hasn't hit Canada yet, so I'll have to link to those dirty commie ******** at NewEgg to show reasonable prices:

E4400: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6819115014
E6600: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6819115003

Another option is Pentium D. This is super-budget, decent performance. These are becoming outdated and are cheap. So cheap, you'll feel guilty thinking about them if you're involved in a serious relationship. I mean, CHEAP. $60 for a low-end one, $120 for a high-end one. Pentium D is basically just two Pentium 4s on the same chip. Good for multitasking, otherwise becoming outdated... still amazing value though. I might almost recommend buying one and seeing if it's adequate for you. CHEAP. Runs HOT though, very hot. HOT and CHEAP. You're despicable.

Curiously, us Canucks seem to have a better price than NewEgg on the P-D 805 CPU:
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... No=2204069

Why not go with AMD, you ask? Go ahead and try it if you want. AMDs are currently super cheap, and almost capable of competing with Core 2s in many cases. Unfortunately they also run kinda hot and I have no experience building AMD systems, so this guide would be for naught. Go for the fastest one you can afford, preferably of the FX (double core) series.

More MHz does not equal more speed. A low mhz Core 2 is faster than a high-mhz Pentium 4. Finally, remember that Pentium 4-based CPUs run frickin' hot. Like 50 degrees at idle sometimes... That's crazy. Get too fast of a Pentium 4 and you'll have to spend more money on cooling equipment than you spent on the CPU.

Next comes RAM. If you're buying a Core 2, here's how it works... take the CPU's rated FSB (front side bus) speed, divide it by two. Now buy RAM that runs at that speed. So for instance, if you're buying an E6600, it has a rated FSB of 1066, so buy 533 RAM. That's PC2-5300. If you're buying an E4400, buy 400 mhz ram, which is PC2-4200. This will make your RAM, motherboard, and CPU all run in sync, which brings some performance benefit and could save a headache later if you plan on overclocking.

Your options in RAM include:

PC2-4200: (533 mhz)
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... CatId=2262 (buy 2 kits, giving you 2 GB of RAM)
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... CatId=2262 (buy 1 kit, giving you 2 GB of RAM)

If you're going to use faster RAM, use MUCH faster RAM or your performance loss due to unsynchronized CPU:RAM will outweigh the benefit. I'd recommend going to PC2-6400, if anything.
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... CatId=2264
(Buy 2 kits, 2 GB)
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... CatId=2264
(Buy 1 kit, 2 GB)
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/ ... CatId=2264
(Buy 1 kit, 2 GB)

Recommended RAM brands are Patriot, Ultra, Corsair, and OCZ, in that order.

Finally! GPU! GPU! GPU!

Your choices here are limitless, so I'll just give you guidelines:

Prices vary WIDELY between shops, shop around or wait for a special.

The two big heavy hitters are the GeForce 8000 series, and the Radeon X2000 series. Geforce wins, though Radeon comes close and can usually be found cheaper.

The very best cost:performance ratio can be found on the GeForce 8800 GTS 320 mb card. You won't need more than 320 mb of video RAM any time in the near future, and the 8800 GTS can be overclocked without risk to a point where the difference between it and a stock-speed 8800 GTX is negligible.

Do NOT go for the 8600 or 8300 cards. They're not worth it. If you haven't got the cash for the real deal, go for something in the 7000 series. The 7800 GT for instance, is an excellent card which will serve you well for some time, as long as you don't downgrade to Windows Vista. Windows 3.1 to Windows Vista is a downgrade. Even Windows ME to Windows Vista is a downgrade. Do not use Vista for any reason. Ever. If you want reasons, go ahead and ask, but take my at my word, you don't want that trash. It is the biggest flop in operating system history, and the only people who deny it are the ones that bought it and can't admit to themselves they wasted $300 that would've been better used as kindling.

So anyway... Here are your two best bets:

7900 GS:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814143070 ($136)
8800 GTS 320mb:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814130082 ($260)

Why not ATI? Because they have crappy drivers... not a really big issue but Nvidia's always a safe bet.

The last major item is the power supply. All I can say is, read user reviews, read web site reviews, read all the reviews you can, and get a power supply that is more than you need. I'd recommend a 600 watt power supply as a minimum. Get one that's know for running cool and quiet, with a very long life. Get a cheap one and it'll die after a month or something stupid, but not before the ball bearing wears out on the fan, treating you to a grinding noise for the last weeks of its life.

Did you read all that? If you did, congratulations, you're probably the only one...

So let's figure cost. At this point, I've given in to the sweet temptation of just using NewEgg as reference, since their catalog is so much easier to search through and their prices are so much better...

Asus P5B Motherboard: $113
Geforce 7900 GS Video Card: $136
2 GB RAM: $66
Intel Core 2 Duo E4400 CPU: $127
Power Supply: $80 minimum

Total is $522 plus shipping.

There are two places you can reduce the cost, and nowhere else IMO: the motherboard and CPU. A Pentium D CPU could cost as much as $80 less, and a non-Asus motherboard could cost as much as $50 less.

Do not settle for less than a 7800 series GPU for any reason. Below that, the performance drops off like a cliff and the price only goes down slowly. And if a certain person tells you that you should get something from the GeForce FX series, since that's all you really need, report him to the FBI - he's a terrorist trying to ruin your computer enjoyment and waste your money.

These are also retail prices. Find a reliable eBay or Amazon seller or just shop around and you can probably reduce the costs by a further 10-20%.
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Peet
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Post by Peet »

A few little notes having skimmed your post:
NCIX owns, is awesome, etc...I've heard very very bad things about people getting ripped off by tigerdirect.

I suggest getting the E6420 rather than anything much higher or lower than that...it overclocks way past the 6600's stock speed, has the full 4MB of cache, and is considerably cheaper.

I have the Asus P5B/P965 chipset and it is an excellent motherboard with everything I could possibly want (it has a PATA controller as well, as you mentioned). There is one slight issue however, which is a slight incompatability with large graphics cards- the 8800 (I have the evga 8800gts 640) is large enough to cover one PCI slot completely, and almost cover a second one. Basically you only have the use of one PCI slot for something like a large soundcard, and one that will only let you squeeze in something like a $10 NIC.

Get 800MHz (PC2-6400) ram. You won't regret it.

I agree with Caydr about Vista...it may perhaps be worth "legally obtaining for free" <_< >_> (technically software piracy is legal in canada actually, as long as you're not uploading :-)) but sure as hell isn't worth the ludicrous prices that it's currently at.

The 8800 is definitely worth the cost for performance, get it if you can possibly afford it.

Oh and make sure you get a soundcard with CMSS, if you plan on listening to music on surround speakers. It's irritating to be listening to mp3's on just the front 3 speakers, and software upmixing just doesn't cut it in terms of quality and speed.
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Argh
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Post by Argh »

Hey, I just wanted to chime in here, and say that the GeForce 7800 GT, which I have right now (the last of the AGP cards, natch!) is really quite nice.

As for the Intel vs. AMD issue... well, I hope AMD gets itself together and responds with better technology, when the quad-cores come out. I wouldn't recommend them, however, at their current price-point... which sucks, since I've been buying AMD for years now, and would hate to give Intel money, frankly.
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Neddie
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Post by Neddie »

If you're building a gaming laptop, which you shouldn't, go for a 7600 Go. For the heat, it is the best graphics card available to you on a notebook without getting one of the radically large cases.

Otherwise, this pretty much mirrors how I'm building my new machine, but I'm poorer, and won't have exactly what Caydr recommends.
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Muzic
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Joined: 09 Aug 2006, 07:08

Post by Muzic »

My little tidbits..

Motherboard

On buying a motherboard...

The brand I really only trust is Asus. When selecting a motherboard just do alot of reading on it just incase certain hardware might be a tad glitchy. The mobo I have gave alot of people headaches with OCZ ram.
Also makesure the hardware you plan to buy is compatible.

On buying RAM...

General rule of thumb on buying RAM. If you intend to do some heavy gaming, 2GB is a must. If not, 1GB can suffice for the average needs. Especially if its DDR2 ram. Also look at the timings, 5-5-5-12 is usually an average timing. Lower means better.

On buying a graphics card.

Cant give any advice here cause I haven't read up on anything o_O..I have a 7900GTO (limited ammount were sold) and I dont lag in anything save Supcom with 2x AA. 8800GTs (320mb) or the 7900GS KO will last along time. The 7900GS has a good 2 -2.5 years ahead of it before DirectX10 becomes mainstream ( or more if it takes dx10 longer). The 7900GS KO will be able to run pretty much most things at full depending on your res. And as games become more demanding, just lower down the settings, hte 7900GS shouldn't be choppy. And the 8800GTS is simply a monster.

On buying a CPU

AMD or Intel?

Answer: What ever is the best bang for the buck!

AMD prices are cheap as hell. Intel prices for certain C2D's are cheap as hell! You can get a very good CPU in the 100-200 dollar range. If you can over clock your better off getting something between that price range and just overclockign it to match the performance of something much better. Im using an e6300(intel c2d) at stock and feel no pressure to oc.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2007/0 ... _x2_6000/7

Prices

Intel Core 2 Duo e4400 - $177.98 - Its worth the money to just go e63 and OC if you want better performance.

Intel Core 2 Duo e6300 - $218.96 - A very good choice.

Intel Core 2 Duo e6600 - $267.99 - Very good Choice if you have the money; very good oc capabilities.

Amd x2 4200 - $100.13 - Cheap, but not future friendly.

Amd x2 5200 - $158.00 - Performs better than the e6300 (VERY LOW PRICE : D )

Amd x2 6000 - $219.56 - Performs on par + + with the e6600

These are canadian prices from NCIX.

Edit: This post should be taken' lightly.
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BlackLiger
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Post by BlackLiger »

oh, for the UK, I personally suggest http://www.ebuyer.com and if they don't have the component you want, http://www.microdirect.co.uk probably will.

Also, prices are -1/3rd because of import and other stupid stuff like that.
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AF
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Post by AF »

The barcelona/phenom cpus from AMD arent going to be fast as core 2 duo, AMD have admitted.
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BigSteve
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Post by BigSteve »

neddiedrow wrote:If you're building a gaming laptop, which you shouldn't, go for a 7600 Go. For the heat, it is the best graphics card available to you on a notebook without getting one of the radically large cases.

Otherwise, this pretty much mirrors how I'm building my new machine, but I'm poorer, and won't have exactly what Caydr recommends.
+1 I have a go 7600 and its awesome, runs stuff like company of heroes in max resoloution with medium to high settings very very well.
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Ishach
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Post by Ishach »

caydr bought a pentium D after c2ds were already very affordable



he is in no position to give anyone advice on anything
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lurker
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Post by lurker »

Why do you say to avoid a motherboard integrated graphics? Price? Stability? The motherboard I'm looking at has the G35 version at the same price, which is supposedly a pretty good GPU. Yes, I'm getting an 8800, but Peet's had some driver stability problems, and the intel GPU's open drivers might be an advantage with linux.

and what are you talking about with RAID only working with SATA?

Also, the ram I got scares me a little. DDR2 rated at 1066, with claims of 1200, with a normal operating voltage of 2.4-2.5 volts :shock: I can't even pair it with normal ram without that ram frying. and it was 60% off with a rebate. Yeah, hoping nothing explodes. >_> <_< >_>
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Relative
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Post by Relative »

You information is slightly outdated and tinged with some fanboism Caydr :P

About the motherboard, you forgot about the new p35 chipset to replace the 965p. Also, although ASUS are indeed good, dismissing other brands like that is a bit naive. For example the Gigabyte P35-DQ6 is considered by many to be one of the best boards currently available.

Intel has recently released the E6550, E6750, E6850, which offer minor improvements such with a 1333 FSB and a better power consumption. Furthermore they are cheaper, at least in the UK, than the old stock, such as the E6600 compared to the E6750 is a £20 difference. Also, stop recommending the damn Pentium D!!!!

In terms of RAM it would be best to get PC2-6400 RAM if you are planning on overclocking a C2D. Also the best RAM out there at the moment IMO is:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showprodu ... subcat=813

Dismissing the 8600 isn't the best idea. Although its not as good as the 7900, it does support DX10, making it an idea card if you are looking for a budget Dx10 card.
imbaczek
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Post by imbaczek »

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Muzic
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Post by Muzic »

yeah. pc2-6400 RAM is really affordable, 100 bucks for 2gb.

e6750 is only 210 CAD!!!!!

that cpu is probably the best bftb
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Machiosabre
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Post by Machiosabre »

should probly rename the thread from new pc to budget pc guide.
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Relative
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Post by Relative »

I don't think we should even bother with this. Leave PC hardware advice to PC hardware forums where people actually know what they are talking about.
erasmus
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Post by erasmus »

the new C2D E6750 as mentioned above is not to be ignored
as well as the Q6600, which saw a 50% price drop to ~290 CAD, which is the cheapest quad core has ever been

it's a snap to overclock to 3.0GHz with all of the C2D chips using stock cooling, and you should be aiming for 3.6 - 3.8 with an aftermarket cooler



new builders might want to look at the P35 chipset

there are gigabyte and asus motherboards, not supporting DDR3, that are at roughly equal pricepoints to their P965 counterparts, which is good value (there are hybrid DDR2/DDR3 boards which are somewhat more expensive but promise better future-proofing)

main reason is 1333FSB for near future Penryn upgrade path and also better memory overclocks



about RAM, just spring for the cheapest deal on the block for 2gigs ddr2-800 with timings no higher than 5-5-5-12 (4-4-4-12 is tightest for ddr2-800)
pretty much every single recognizable manufacturer's RAM overclocks well enough from G.Skill to Patriot to Crucial to Corsair to Mushkin
~$100 CAD is a good startpoint if you look at rebates



about video cards, X1950 PRO is a very viable ATI alternative to 7900GS

and if you find deals for the 8600GTS that are below the 7900GS/X1950PRO pricepoint, thats actually not a bad purchase, as they benchmark quite competitively and support GPU-based HD video decoding (your CPU is free to pursue other dalliances while you watch movies)

anyways, wouldn't recommend springing for 8800 or 2900 series atm as they perform pretty crappily in all of the DX10 benchmarks posted so far
and... you can get perfectly good DX9 performance at a price about $100-200 lower with 7900gs/x1950pro (unless you have a 30" monitor o.O)

for DX10 i'd recommend waiting for the next generation--> nvidia's refresh of G80 and ATI's R900 architectures where we might see some actual competition and ensuing price war


for power supplies:
unless you're going for some kind of SLI, quad core, multidrive array setup, <600W is more than sufficient

it's basically:
fortron/sparkle = cheapest (can go as low as ~$50 CAD), reliable
seasonic/corsair = more pricey ~130 CAD, silent, highly reliable


hard drives are cheap so don't need to worry so much about that
500GB drives are actually just as affordable as their lowlier brethren now and perform up to the likes of the 10k rpm Raptors

the western digital AAKS series is currently top spot for performance, noise, cost, and heat



in conclusion, at the current state of market, with ~$1300 CAD you can build yourself an absolutely beastly and near silent machine for moderately high resolution DX9 gaming with very good upgradability
including topnotch quiet cool case (antec solo/nzxt hush) and a decent quality 22" TN monitor (LG l226wt)



http://www.dailytech.com has a frequently updated Hot Deals section which you should keep an eye on if youre building
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Muzic
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Post by Muzic »

Wow..I cant wait for that canadian price drop. Definatly if anyone is looking to buy a computer with a 300 dollar budget; get the Q6600.
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Caydr
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Post by Caydr »

Re: Tigerdirect vs NCIX - I can't comment too much on that. I've had nothing but good experiences with TigerDirect, and their shipping is incredibly fast. NCIX often takes 3 or more days just to process an order! I remember one time about a year ago, I made a small order at both TD and NCIX. I made the NCIX one on a Thursday, and the TD one on the followig Saturday. My TD order arrived before the NCIX one even shipped.
Ishach wrote:caydr bought a pentium D after c2ds were already very affordable
he is in no position to give anyone advice on anything
I also donated two full days' machinist's pay to an open source project on a whim, I was feeling spendy. TBH the P-D 805 is perfectly fine for all but the most demanding stuff, the only downside is its high temperature. Even runs SupCom reasonably well... and since SupCom is basically, we all agree, among the most CPU-demanding games out there, to say that it can manage it means it's not a bad choice at $50. And the CPU I wanted to buy, an E6600, costs $250. A fifth the price... yeah that's reasonable...

Finally, a few more things to add:

-"Gaming" ram is a load of crap. It's for people who buy LEDs on their cases and use "Fatal1ty" branded stuff. It's an excuse to raise RAM price for no reason. The difference between 5-5-5 RAM and 4-4-4 ram or, heck, 8-8-8 RAM and 2-2-2 RAM is basically immeasurably tiny even when using complex testing. I can source that. Basically, the difference between the fastest and slowest PC2-6400 (for instance) is less than 1%, but the price difference is a hundred dollars or more. Spend that hundred dollars on something that will give you a humanly noticeable performance boost!

-Overclocking can seem daunting at first, but here's a quick overview: for CPU, a 5% overclock equals free performance with no drawbacks, so there's no reason not to do it. Any computer can be overclocked 5%, probably 10%, and possibly even 15%. My (very) old Pentium 4 2.4 ghz was overclocked to 3 GHz, and my 3 GHz chip was overclocked to 3.66 GHz. The only real limiting factors are how hot you want your computer to get (this is just for YOUR sake... a room with a 50 degree computer gets hot fast), and often RAM speed. Patriot brand ram can handle good overclocking usually, while cheaper brands often cannot. Anyways... the point is, there's no reason not to overclock by a small amount anymore. Do this by raising your FSB. Read a guide on the subject, it's real easy. When you raise your FSB, your entire computer (excluding GPU and some other stuff) runs faster, including your memory. Some components simply are not built to handle this added speed, such as your PCI cards. For this reason, you need to limit your PCI bus speed, which is easily done in your bios settings.

-Besides CPU overclocking, GPU can also be overclocked to great effect. My Geforce 8800 GTS runs at 648 core @ 1512 shader @ 1836 memory. Its stock speed is 500 core @ 1200 shader @ 1600 memory. The 8800 GTX's stock speed is 575 core @ 1350 shader @ 1800 memory. The GTS doesn't have as many processors as the GTX, but I can still beat stock GTX benchmark scores. I wouldn't recommend running your card at such a high overclock, since I have a lot of experience and a well-ventilated case, but you can still find sites that will tell you how far you can push a typical GPU of the type you decide to buy.

-Cooling: Buy a case with room for at least 2 fans minimum. Then buy a Zalman CPU cooler, preferably a 9500 or 9700. Orient the fans so the air blows out the back of your computer. Find a GOOD case with room for expansion and excellent airflow.
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