Tabula cut on a CNC mill

[el_matarife]

Apologies for bumping this thread, but I'm now 75% done building my own CNC mill too. I'm building the same type of mill kb18951452 has, so I should be able to build similar things when I'm done. Any of you guys who have a decent set of tools and a few thousand dollars could build one, assuming you have a few skills and a little help.





I'd be happy to answer questions about the mill, and I'm planning on building a few neat Spring related items with it as a gag.

I'm also running a blog with all the steps I've done to build it: http://lascolinascnc.com/
(Start 3 pages back for the beginning)

[hunterw]

make talus

[Pendrokar]

I'd be happy to answer questions about the mill, and I'm planning on building a few neat Spring related items with it as a gag.

How does it work?

[el_matarife]

Okay, start with the basics. As you can see from the gantry, there's essentially a giant "arm" that passes over the work surface. I'm going to add a carriage that can travel left and right on that arm, and then that carriage will be able to go up and down. The carriages are moved by motors, which drive these giant rods you can see in the photograph.

You know how nuts screw onto a bolt? The carriages are moved the same way by the turning of the rod. Turn it clockwise to move it one way, counter clockwise for the other direction.

Meanwhile, the motors are plugged into a controller that says "Turn this many revolutions then pause" or similar commands. The controllers talk to the PC through your parallel (printer) port. Software outputs a "cut path" that tells the motors what direction to move the carriages to do the cut you want.

Here's a few Youtube videos so you can get a sense of how it all works since my description isn't as clear as it could be: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35M2GfRjsm4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThnUPLTMnc4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPAEYxutH4M http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrluM2lvrP0

[Strategia]

When I saw this thread title in the active topics list, I thought someone had made Tabula for a Command & Conquer game, which would've been awesome. I wasn't expecting this. This is even more awesome! If I didn't live in Europe (and I wasn't broke), I'd probably ask for a (paid) commission

[kb18951452]

OK
I am finally moved to California, and have a 4:1 ratio board to decorate.

I want 4 - 1:1 maps to "tile" the board with.

here is my list so far

Aberdeen

Tundra

DSDX (Because its 1:1)

Looking for 1 more.

[kb18951452]

Ok, Chose Core Prime Industrial Area

Lets see how it looks tommorow.

[el_matarife]

You going to use MDF or what other kind of wood? We've found that a 1 to 1 mixture of wood glue to water (Dilute to a "chicken soup" consistency) brushed on then a coating of Zinsser primer will make painting MDF much easier.

[BaNa]

Cool! I have a warm fuzzy feeling inside now :)

[kb18951452]

HOLY COW!

They look great so far. I have about an inch left on the machine (ill be done before i leave for work).

I am wondering wait the chances are of me finding someone willing to paint this for a small sum...... Maybe a highschool art student?

Ok, I am excited.

El, What do you do about all the little "burs" all over the material? do you burn them off, or just seal it with glue, then paint, and sand and paint?

How are you dealing with all the little "thingies" sticking p from the material?

Thanks for recommending Core Prime. Its the "best" looking one, if you don't play TA, and especially if i doesn't have a texture painted on. I am gonna go experiment with making that Coffee Table again.

Look for pictured later this morning, or this evening.

[kb18951452]

Here is the First set of pictures!

[kb18951452]

Think i can find a painter?

[el_matarife]

El, What do you do about all the little "burs" all over the material? do you burn them off, or just seal it with glue, then paint, and sand and paint?

How are you dealing with all the little "thingies" sticking p from the material?

As with all woodwork, it's all about sanding. I'd just do some sanding with a really light touch. I'd also consider doing the glue sealing first since I have no idea how sanding might damage the raw insides of MDF. The glue sealant should get you at least somewhat close to the factory seal, I hope.

(For those who are unfamiliar with woodworking: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primer_%28paint%29)

[KaiserJ]

hells yea! that turned out amazing.

i could paint it for you, but i assume i live far away.

edit : maybe trying printing out a single map and experimenting with it... i think what i would try to do is emulate the gradient of the heightmap on the wooden model with brown paint, and then drybrush different colors over the top.

[kb18951452]

Yea, thats the trick.

My wife pointed out that it needs to match the color scheme of the rest of the cabinet. Might have to make something else....maybe bigger..... maybe in another room.

[el_matarife]

<Phoenix>
Generally I sand off the big stuff first. With raw MDF I generally start with a 220 triple cut sandpaper. Be very careful with this sand paper as it will take MDF in a hurry and you don't want to destroy the great work you've already done so far. After you hit it with the 220, you can go down to a 400 grit to do a "finish" sanding. Once you have done that you can apply the diluted glue mixture (1:1 as matarife mentioned). You can do this with a small brush of some sort. I use brushes you get at Woodcraft or Harborfreight. They sell 1/4" and 1/2" varieties with a metal handle. They work great for wood glue and this mixture. Let that dry. The normal dry time can be as little as 30 minutes, though with the extra water, I gave it a good hour. Basically if you can hit it with a 400 grit sand paper and it doesn't roll off, you should be good. Be very careful sanding it as its easy to take the glue off. Once you have done that, you are ready to hit it with an oil-based primer. Never use a water-based primer on MDF, even if you have primed it with glue. If the glue is penetrated...it will swell big time. Finally, you can lightly sand the primer though be careful not to sand too much or you will break the seal. If you use 400 grit you should be OK for a few passes. After all of this, you should be ready to paint. :) You can use water-based after this preparation method without fear of massive amounts of swelling.

Sorry for the giant paragraph....
</Phoenix>

[kb18951452]

Nailed up the Cabinet last night!


BTW how do i make images Appear IN the post?

[kb18951452]

The last 2 maps.

[KaiserJ]

core prime looks freaking amazing there!

id be tempted, once you have it painted / finished the way you like... to make a mold around the top and pour in clear epoxy in the manner than they create the squares for sidewalks.

awesome project... and i have to say, your wife must be pretty easygoing to allow for massive projects like CnC routers and spring themed cabinets. does she have a sister? lol jk but seriously this project is amazing and i love seeing the progress you're making.

[kb18951452]

TA Spring Pavers huh?

I have a friend who's a Cement Man. Designs waterfalls,yards, landscape, that kind of thing.

Hmm......... Spring Pavers. That clear Epoxy is awfully expensive stuff (like $50 a gallon)

On a similar note, How about Spring Map Chocolate Bars? It would be simply to make a Silicon Mold of a map for pouring Chocolate Bars.

(EDIT: I have not only a Pretty Wife, but she is also Easy going. And yes. She has 5 sisters. 2 are Dead, and the other 3 are married