little tut for midknight as requested in random WIP forum
most of my graphics that you've seen on here consist of three basic ingredients. vector shapes, punch / unify paths, and fireworks effects.
for the example, we speak about the top left of the texture for that plane; a wing.
1) i traced the basic shape of the wing using the path tool to get a vector shape (using fireworks, you can use photoshoop or many other programs to get this) by clicking around the edges, and applying a random color to the finished texture. 2) made two copies of the shape (so i have three in total) all on top of eachother in layers. 3) scaled the top shape down slightly to make the shape of that "cutout" section of the wing that has the rectangles 4) selected the scaled shape, and the one below it, and selected "punch paths." this removes a section the size of the scaled shape from the one below it so you end up with that nice angled trim around the outside, with the original shape remaining below. 5) take a bit of thought as to the layer arrangement... at this point i put the rectangles beneath the trim, but above the wing shape for some simple greebling. 6) since the rectangles and the bracket are both "above" the level of the basic wing shape, i select them all and give them a light grey color, and both a "glow" of black as well as an "inner glow" of white for the illusion that they have dimension. since the lowest shape interacts with nothing else, i give it merely a dark grey color for the sake of preshadow. (i dont really remember how to apply styles to shapes in photoshoop, but i know it can be done... its one of those little buttons you use to interact with the layers, over by the garbage can or the layer mask IIRC)
you can at this point go back and apply a texture to the vector shape (in this case it was a grain texture at 10%) to give it a little more juice, and of course you can greeble and detail extensively by punching holes in your vector shapes (for stormsiege i went to work for a while punching and unifying shapes to get that funky circle texture)
a good technique is to group objects that you wish to be at the same simulated depth, so that the glow effect doesnt interfere and overlap with the adjacent shapes.
but yeah, that's my tale of how to make that wing in about 1 minute (after a bit of practice) it'll never be smothworthy or even close, but it certainly gets the job done fast... and if you go back after that and want to get super detailed, at least you've saved a bunch of time laying a basic texture!
Joined: 10 Sep 2008, 02:11 Location: Bayesian space monkeys
Thanks so much, KaiserJ!
News:My hiatus is over, and I'm back to spring developement! Pictures: Did some work on the bladewing texture today. Still not very beautiful, but I'm getting better. Observation: Talk with Kaiser helps increase my skinning skill
Some preshading has been added via an AO bake (thanks, rattle!). I'll probably have to add more later If you didn't realize, the previous pic of the skin was with lighting. On this one, the shading's all its own.
close-up of the weapon. The thing in the back with the yellow dots is the cover that encases the weapon. I moved it for visibility reasons for these shots.
booster mesh close-up. I think the plates are an improvement! EDIT: For comparison:
Seems like you did filter->render->clouds filter->render->fibres filter->artistic->dry brush
Try to avoid relying on PS filters to try and get your texture detail / texture noise. If you need to get real world texture feels, use real world textures from cgtextures or flickr, or some other source. That's what I do. With a bit of loving it is quite easy to get them to look like part of your texture instead of just pasted on.
However, I do use filters (including the ones mentioned above) to make decent reflectivity textures without lots of hard working and handpainting.
After you've done that you still need to work on it, eg make scratches (with a 1 px brush on burn/highlight), add some color (an overlay of pure blue on 5% opacity makes it look better, but you can do it even better), ect, a lot can be done, but you have to do the 1th step correct first.
Joined: 10 Sep 2008, 02:11 Location: Bayesian space monkeys
Ah, I give up. Next version'll have an actual metal texture
I was actually going for a "ceramic" look, but I guess any attempts to do that will end up with a plain color/paper/leather looking texture.
As for CarRepairer: 60 petabytes, NovaTek USB 9001 compatible, not waterproof (certainly not steamproof), but can handle a few plasma slug shots. Oh, and yes you could, but at the least your keychain would have to be the size of that bucket you live in.
What the heck are those blue things? Are they supposed to be inset? Sticking out? Lights? They look like a painted white line with weird blue paint inside. The lack of any preshading makes them not look like anything. If they are a light emmitter they are going to emit a glow on the surrounding areas of texture. If they are an inset they are going to have shadows on the areas the sunlight hits indirectly and blooms on the areas the sunlight hits directly.
How is the joint attached? I see a ceramic blob with a black dot in it... is there supposed to be a bolt somewhere? Or an O pivot? There no texturing of anything of the sort. It's just a black dot. What's worse, the black dot looks like it's painted on, which is absurd because it's blending into the ceramic texture. It just doesn't make any sense at all, it doesn't look like anything sane.
The big black semi-ring around the joint. Is that an inset? is it supposed to be a hole into the model? Is it paint? What the heck is that?
The vent. There is no preshading at all in the vent, how do you install a vent onto a machine and have a perfectly smooth surface where the surface of the machine intersects with the vent? There needs to be a line with sunshaded preshading on the joint where the ceramic meets the vent. Also, the opening of the vent razor sharp? Why isn't there any visual indication at all that there is an inset there? Sunlight HAS to hit something there and create a gleam on one side/the bottom and a dim edge on the opposite side. The blades of the vent are even worse, they look like laziliy textured bars, there is no visual indication of a slant to them at all. Vents have slanted blades so air can pass freely through them in a controlled direction, perfectly horizontal blades will corrupt air flow. It's pretty easy to make a blend making the inner section of the blade dark and the outer section of the blade light.
Why can we see dark through the blades at all? Maby little tiny slivers of dark would make sense, but vent blades are close enough together generally that they actually direct airflow. that much open space is absurd, you might as well just leave an open hole with no vent blades at all. If that was solved the next question would be irrellevant, but I really can't figure out why you gave darkness a texture... Darkness is black, it's dark because light is not escaping. Darkness can not emit white stripes.
You HAVE to texture onto a model the effects of sunlight hitting the model. Spring does NOT do that for you, and the model will look bad unless you at very least make a faked attempt at it. The inner part where the blades will cast shadows should be darker, the insides of the blades should be darker, the inside of the hook should be darker, light brightening should be seen on wide surfaces that will be in direct sunlight the majority of the time. Don't texture on gleams, as the reflectivity map will handle that, but you absolutely have to texture on bloom and shadow.
With a really nice normal map, that kind of a texture might be fine, but CA doesn't use normal maps at all yet, and spring really hasn't implemented them completely in any sense of the word. You have to use oldschool lightfaking in your texturing, there is no engine technology to do that work for you yet. And even when there is, you still have to have the highpoly model first to make the effect work the way you want it to.
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